Oil-Based Stains: The Poultice Method
Olive oil, cooking oil, and grease penetrate unsealed marble's pores almost on contact, leaving a dark, spreading shadow rather than a surface stain. Because the oil sits inside the stone rather than on top of it, wiping the surface does nothing. The poultice has to pull the oil back out.
Mix baking soda with water into a thick, non-runny paste, or use a commercial stone poultice. Spread it about a quarter-inch thick over the stain, extending slightly past its edges. Cover with plastic wrap, tape down the edges to slow evaporation, and leave it undisturbed for 24 to 48 hours. As the poultice dries, it draws the oil out of the stone. Remove it, rinse with water, and buff dry. Older or heavily set stains sometimes need a second application.
Red Wine: Why Timing and Stone Color Matter
Blot fresh wine immediately with a clean, dry cloth. Wiping spreads the pigment across more of the porous surface and drives it deeper in. Rinse with water and a little mild dish soap, then reassess once the area is dry.
If discoloration remains, a hydrogen-peroxide-based poultice is the common professional approach, but only for white or light-colored marble, since peroxide can lighten darker or colored stone unevenly. Apply it the same way as the baking-soda poultice, and always patch-test on an inconspicuous area first. Don't leave a peroxide poultice on longer than recommended; extended exposure can affect the finish.
What Not to Do
Don't use vinegar, lemon juice, or other acidic cleaners. They etch marble almost instantly. Don't mix ammonia and bleach, and don't use either directly on the stain. Don't scrub with abrasive pads or powdered cleansers, which dull the polish and can grind the stain in deeper.
The Permanent Fix: Why RAKU-Protected Marble Doesn't Stain Like This
Every method above exists because untreated marble is porous. Wine and oil have somewhere to go. RAKU nanocoating changes that permanently. Applied by a certified installer in a single day with no operational downtime, RAKU bonds into the stone's pores at a molecular level rather than sitting on top the way a sealer does. A sealer only sits in the pores temporarily and needs reapplication every one to three years; RAKU carries a 10-year commercial warranty and doesn't wear off the surface the way a topical product does.
Once cured, RAKU is food-safe, heat resistant to 1,900°F, and won't yellow, crack, or peel. Because liquids sit on top of the coating instead of soaking into the stone, red wine and oil wipe away within a normal cleanup window instead of requiring a 24-to-48-hour poultice treatment. If you don't want to manage stain emergencies stone by stone, it's worth understanding how RAKU permanently prevents marble staining.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can red wine stains be removed from marble?
Yes, if treated quickly. Blot the spill, don't wipe, rinse with water, and treat any remaining discoloration with a hydrogen-peroxide poultice on white or light marble, always patch-tested first. Older, set-in stains are harder to remove fully and may need professional treatment.
Does olive oil permanently stain marble?
It can if left untreated. Olive oil soaks into unsealed marble's pores and darkens the stone. A baking-soda poultice applied for 24 to 48 hours typically pulls the oil back out, though deeply set stains sometimes need more than one treatment.
How do professionals remove stains from marble?
Professionals first identify whether a stain is oil-based or pigment-based, then apply a matching poultice, an absorbent paste applied and covered for 24 to 48 hours to draw the substance out of the stone, rather than scrubbing or reaching for acidic cleaners that can etch the surface.